As the lunchtime rush intensifies, Iszahar Tambunan maintains his composure at Sabar Menanti, his family-run Malay restaurant. He efficiently directs customers to available seats while slipping behind the counter to serve the restaurant’s signature dish: nasi padang. This traditional Indonesian rice meal is accompanied by an array of meats, fish, vegetables, and sauces.
Sabar Menanti has a rich legacy. Founded by Tambunan's grandparents in the 1920s, it began as a modest pushcart near a tombstone shop in Kampong Glam, a historic Malay district in Singapore. A family friend gifted them an old signboard reading "Sabar Menanti," which translates to "wait patiently" in Bahasa Indonesia, giving the restaurant its name.
Nestled in a shophouse in the bustling tourist area, Tambunan remembers being aware of his destiny as the future owner from a young age. After his grandparents passed away in the 1980s, his mother and relatives took over. Despite his upbringing in the family business, Iszahar worked as a shipbroker for over 15 years, comforted by the predictability of his job.
In 2022, a turning point arrived when his mother, Maryulis Bagindor Marlian, expressed concerns about her health. At 68, after nearly three decades of managing Sabar Menanti, she encouraged him to take the reins. Recognizing the urgency, Iszahar decided to plunge into the family business, motivated by a desire to avoid future regret.
Transitioning to full ownership brought its challenges, especially with rising operational costs. Rent increased significantly after an investment firm took over the property. Initially disheartened, Iszahar considered returning to shipping but was helped by the Urban Redevelopment Authority, which facilitated a move to a new location in the same area at a more reasonable rent.
After eight months of renovation, Sabar Menanti reopened in 2023, directly across from the iconic Sultan Mosque. However, the costs of running a restaurant in such a prime location continued to present challenges. Labor costs and ingredient prices soared—whole chickens, for instance, had increased by 30% over the past decade.
To cope with these rises, Iszahar had to raise the prices of menu items. A plate of nasi padang with two sides, which used to cost less than SG$8, is now priced starting at SG$10. He explains that the preparation of dishes like beef rendang demands significant time and labor—sometimes taking four to five hours to cook.
While some customers voiced their dissatisfaction over the price hikes, many, like regular patron Azreen Aziz, recognized the effort involved in preparing traditional dishes. She articulated her understanding, often choosing items like tauhu telor and sotong masak hitam when dining at Sabar Menanti with colleagues.
Despite evolving prices and a shift in location, Sabar Menanti remains a cherished destination for both longtime patrons and new visitors. Iszahar has noted a demographic shift as younger diners now frequent the restaurant, often accompanied by older generations who introduce their children to his family’s beloved nasi padang.
The recipes, carefully passed down from his grandmother to his mother and now to Iszahar, remain a closely guarded secret. He reassures those concerned about recipe theft that "the magic is in the shop."
Celebrities, including the late Anthony Bourdain, have also graced Sabar Menanti, adding to its allure. Iszahar recalls his mother excitedly calling him while serving Bourdain, who stopped by in 2017.
As the lunch crowd wanes by mid-afternoon, Iszahar prepares to pick up his twins from school, grateful for the flexibility that owning a restaurant grants him. His mother stays behind to assist front-of-house, staying active in her later years.
Hoping to keep the family legacy alive, Iszahar expresses a desire for his children to one day take the reins of Sabar Menanti. He sees potential in their differing personalities; his son, with a love for food, and his daughter, who has a knack for business, might make a great team.
As he wraps up the day, Iszahar reflects on the journey of Sabar Menanti, committed to preserving its heritage and thriving in the future. When asked if she's pleased her son has taken charge, his mother succinctly replies, "Of course. He's my son."